Friday, April 4, 2014

more tales from the road...

So people want to know: "what's it really like on the  Camino?"  A few more stories:

We left Leon early in the morning, facing grey drizzle, which held off for the time being,but hung around all day.

The way out of town is just what you'd expect:  the way out of....back streets, industrial,not the nice neighborhoods.  The sidewalk is slanted and your feet hurt walking on it.

Stopping for coffee, and a washroom break, you adjust the pack and clothing depending on the weather.  You have some food with you,in case you need it later.

A couple we know are side lined right now.  He's had health issues that had him in hospital for three days at the start of the Camino, and now is suffering dizzy ness due to inner ear issues.    They've made it such a long way  to find themselves wondering what will happen next.  But they are just in the same place all of us are in life: living it.  The road we walk takes us all kind of unexpected places.  What we do while we are there....that is what matters.

We arrive at a refugio.  These days its cold outside and inside.  Not a lot of heat provided for 5 euros, which is the amount the law allows for standard service.  If there us extras thrown in, they can charge more.... But in this low season, not many do.  Get a shower,wash clothes and hang them up....Rest a bit, then go find food.  It is Spain, so early dinners are possible at 8 pm for pilgrims.  Most places don't have kitchen staff on much before that. So much of this time is just before the Camino walking season really takes off, so the last few days we have been alone at our evening meals.

Since Leon on March 27 we have stayed at:

Villadangos del Paramo:

 Hospital de Orbigo:


Rabanal del Camino:

El Acebo:



and La Portela de Valcarce.  That is 8 days in a row with someplace between 12 and 22 km per day of trekking with a back pack  through rain, sleet, fog, howling wind and some simple drizzle, along with some simply lovely overcast skies.

After Rabanal we climbed the mountain pass up to the Cruz de Ferro during a terrific day of wind, sleet, rain and fog.  Dave stayed on the pathway for part of the day and slogged through streams of water on the path and snow drifts.  I stuck to the road way and stayed a bit drier.  We were grateful for a fireplace at Foncebaddon where we could dry off a bit and warm up before continuing.  Our time at the Cruz de Ferro was brief:  such a cold wind!

Dave had chosen to take the bottom of his zip off pants off so he could avoid sodden pant legs in the wind:  his knees were scarlet in the wind and rain.

That was a really great day on the road.  Hard work, and we were thrilled to have a place to stay in El Acebo with heat we could control.... A hostal, with a room of our own! And a great cook in the kitchen.  Nothing like warmth and good food to make a hard day on the road worth it!

Tomorrow (Saturday) we head uphill again, this time over the last pass at O'Cebrerio, into Galicia.  The forecast is scattered showers, and a high of 18c.  Yahoo!

No comments:

Post a Comment