O Cebriero

We are here in O Cebreiro!  This is the last "high place" on the Camino -- there are small patches of snow around us here, though the weather is quite mild.  We walked, more or less, into the clouds here; the sun has occasionally poked through, it has rained a little today, but we are lacking the cold and wind of the last "high place," the Cruz de Ferro, where we were perpetually cold.

It is beautiful here, as you can see.  There are views like the above on three sides of the town of O Cebreiro, which is at the edge of Galicia, the province of which Santiago is the capital.

O Cebriero is notable for a couple of things.  It has the oldest church on the Camino, dating from the ninth century.  It is a lovely church -- here is a view down the main aisle, and one picture of the baptistry.  The font is also ninth century.

The other thing about O Cebreiro is that a longtime priest here was really one of the very first and most important promoters of this Camino.  He did some study about pilgrimage and its advantages, spoke about it throughout Europe, and in 1984, went through the Camino Frances (the one we are on) and painted the yellow arrows that we all have been following ever since.  The priest is buried in the church here in O Cebreiro.

So... it was a hard climb up today.  Now we are enjoying something of a rest.  There is a kind of "Banff-like" atmosphere to this place; it is a real tourist spot.  But like Banff, it is beautiful.  About 150 km left to Santiago, so we are in the home stretch now.

Blessings to you all at home!  There are still several stories I'd like to share, and time and technology are proving to be challenges.  But as able, I'd like to tell you about the fellow who stopped his bike to talk with us one day, about the economy here and what it is about our world that creates collapses like what has happened here, about walking in the rain, about the Cruz de Ferro...

Another time!
Dave

more tales from the road...

So people want to know: "what's it really like on the  Camino?"  A few more stories:

We left Leon early in the morning, facing grey drizzle, which held off for the time being,but hung around all day.

The way out of town is just what you'd expect:  the way out of....back streets, industrial,not the nice neighborhoods.  The sidewalk is slanted and your feet hurt walking on it.

Stopping for coffee, and a washroom break, you adjust the pack and clothing depending on the weather.  You have some food with you,in case you need it later.

A couple we know are side lined right now.  He's had health issues that had him in hospital for three days at the start of the Camino, and now is suffering dizzy ness due to inner ear issues.    They've made it such a long way  to find themselves wondering what will happen next.  But they are just in the same place all of us are in life: living it.  The road we walk takes us all kind of unexpected places.  What we do while we are there....that is what matters.

We arrive at a refugio.  These days its cold outside and inside.  Not a lot of heat provided for 5 euros, which is the amount the law allows for standard service.  If there us extras thrown in, they can charge more.... But in this low season, not many do.  Get a shower,wash clothes and hang them up....Rest a bit, then go find food.  It is Spain, so early dinners are possible at 8 pm for pilgrims.  Most places don't have kitchen staff on much before that. So much of this time is just before the Camino walking season really takes off, so the last few days we have been alone at our evening meals.

Since Leon on March 27 we have stayed at:

Villadangos del Paramo:

 Hospital de Orbigo:

Astorga:

Rabanal del Camino:

El Acebo:

Ponferrada:

Pieros:

and La Portela de Valcarce.  That is 8 days in a row with someplace between 12 and 22 km per day of trekking with a back pack  through rain, sleet, fog, howling wind and some simple drizzle, along with some simply lovely overcast skies.

After Rabanal we climbed the mountain pass up to the Cruz de Ferro during a terrific day of wind, sleet, rain and fog.  Dave stayed on the pathway for part of the day and slogged through streams of water on the path and snow drifts.  I stuck to the road way and stayed a bit drier.  We were grateful for a fireplace at Foncebaddon where we could dry off a bit and warm up before continuing.  Our time at the Cruz de Ferro was brief:  such a cold wind!



Dave had chosen to take the bottom of his zip off pants off so he could avoid sodden pant legs in the wind:  his knees were scarlet in the wind and rain.

That said....it was a really great day on the road.  Hard work, and we were thrilled to have a place to stay in El Acebo with heat we could control.... A hostal, with a room of our own! And a great cook in the kitchen.  Nothing like warmth and good food to make a hard day on the road worth it!

Tomorrow (Saturday) we head uphill again, this time over the last pass at O'Cebrerio, into Galicia.  The forecast is scattered showers, and a high of 18c.  Yahoo!

Birdwatching on the Camino is fun!

 We really enjoy birdwatching, and walking the Camino gives lots of opportunity to enjoy the birds, along with other "critters".  One day we passed a sheep pen moments after a lamb was born.  We often see sheep, goats, horses and cattle, while many cats have made friends, while "guard dogs" have barked at one end while their tail has wagged at the other.

 But we love watching the birds.

 These two - the kestrel and this wagtail,were at the castle in Ponferrada.

 Storks are busy nesting these days.  This fella flew away with a full beak of nesting material.

 This little guy is a European Robin, about as happy a little fella as you'd expect.

 This one has a green back - not sure who he was.

 This one is Robin.

 This crested fella is a lark.

 This is a red legged partridge.

 A wagtail.

 Easter chicks......in a shop window.

 A European goldfinch.

 Not too sure, but what a great spot to perch!

Stories I could tell you.........okay I will!

So, the time has come to tell a few Camino stories.  Like the one about the girl, sound asleep, who fell out of her top bunk in the middle of the night.  She's walking the Camino with her mom, and scared her half to death.  She had her arms inside her sleeping bag and couldn't break her fall, so was knocked out when she hit the floor.  She said her mothers face was the loveliest thing she'd ever seen when it was the first thing she saw when she opened her eyes.

Or there is the story about a gang of trekkers on the first leg of the Camino Frances out of St. Jean Pied  de Port.  They were stopped by a French Farmer, 20km "off Camino". He gave them a ride in the back of his manure spreader.

There are people like this man named David, outside of Astorgia, who got 5 years has lived on the Camino, with the goal of serving pilgrims.   He has food, a fire. A place for rest and conversation, out on the edge of the meseta.

Dave and I met a couple, flush with love, in Leon.  They'd walked,nay, 'floated' over 40km together that day, to reach the city.  They met on the road, weeks before and have been together ever since.  He's from Europe; she's North American.

One of the stories to consider are the 'behind the scenes supporting cast' type.  All those who make it their vocation to support pilgrims. Hospetalerios are typically volunteers, who staff the aubergues we stay at.  Many have been pilgrims, and take on the chores of cleaning, registration, and taking care of basic needs which arise.  Most have stories, advice, insight:  all are there because they value the spiritusl work of pilgrimage.  We met one man this morning at the hostal/hotel we were at, preparing to head out to his stint volunteering.  His job is to support pilgrims, and he began with us by tying a bootlace.

Then there are all those who set up shop so that pilgrims will have places to buy groceries, a meal, basic supplies, often in remote areas.  Some have chosen to make caring for pilgrims a well considered vocation, investing time and money to build attractive, functional spaces for meals, washrooms, laundry, sleeping.
We have had lovely meals and clean sheets given to us, the loan of warm gloves one cold morning (we mailed them back!),  and people who reached out with care and interest to tired, footsore people at the end of a long day.  Just the other day, as I offered to help prepare for dinner in the lovely homey spot we landed after a soaking wet day, I was smilingly told "you have done your work today already (walking): now it is my time to work. You go relax."

Ah yes, and then there is the story of a man in a big yellow poncho, known for having "emergency chocolate" in his pack, which he shares at moments which require some extra help.    The other day a young fella from Ireland was laughing as he recalled being given chocolate on one difficult day.

There are a lot of special people out here on the road!

Buen Camino!   Karen.

Tough days

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times....After two weeks of really exceptional spring weather, we woke this morning to snow on the ground and rooftops.  Our arrival on the meseta was met with gusts of wind,  followed  by grey sky and rain.   Blisters have gone past the point of "grin and bear it" for Karen.  She, along with a marathon runner from Atlanta,  limped in for a Doctors consultation and some rest days are bringing healing.  Dave continued walking  full days and experienced one day of rain, gale and misery,  followed by a morning in wind.  Knees are sore.    Yesterday Karen rode in a luggage transfer van, then a bus to meet Dave, and met one of our compadres on the bus, heading off for a rest.   After a night in a refugio with coughing bunkmates and one poor girl with stomach flu retching down the hall on a regular basis all night, we now have bus tickets in hand for Leon.  It is the time of the Camino when all of our various ailments have reached the point where we can no longer deny that something must be done.

Dave now.  Karen's feet kept her resting and seeking medical attention, so we agreed for some "solitude time" and I kept walking.  The first day (the last day of our good weather) was great!  Nice scenery -- I was walking through a valley -- birds, and the good kind of solitude in which you feel one with the universe.  Refugio that night was in a place that had opened only the day before!

The next day was different.  The first task was to climb out of the valley -- a bit of a grunt -- and then straight down another steep hill onto the plain.  I thought the clouds didn't really look like rain, but then it started and continued for the rest of my walk.  I had planned a rest in the next town -- but everything was closed.  And the next.  And there wasn't really another next -- not for 18 km.  So I plowed ahead through the rain and the wind, needing to keep walking just to keep warm, no shelter, no places to rest, and really, not another soul on the trail.  When I went through one town, it was completely deserted except for one stray dog and an old man leaning against a ruined barn as I left (there is a sadness here in the smaller towns, maybe like the sadness in small Canadian towns.  Ruins behind doors onto the street, "for sale" signs weathering on the broken windows, empty cafes...)

By the time I got to Fromista, my knees were sore, my boots full of water, my bones chilled.  Hoping to meet Karen -- and needing some real sleep -- I booked a hotel room.  But Karen was staying back where I began the day.

Karen now:  I had seen the doctor and gone to get my "wound dressing" by the nurse.  She made sure the dressing was big enough there was no way to put my boots back on.  In sandles, on a wet wet wet day, it was back to my bunk to a warm sleeping bag (heat is never on in the daytime or through the night at a refugio) to read my kindle book and visit with new friends, also reduced to feet up and off the floor status.

Dave:   As the day wore on, friends came into Fromista.  One was ready to give up (he is now in Leon, where we are headed).  One Korean who has been struggling on a sprained ankle is also headed for medical attention in Leon, afraid that he is doing serious damage.  One friend that I thought I would never see on the trail, he seemed so strong, is now holding tight in this town waiting for bleeding feet to heal.

So... Monday was a tough day!   I seem to be one of the lucky ones, because my feet are okay and my aches and pains seem mostly to clear up by morning.  But there are a lot of walking wounded out here -- or NOT walking wounded.  To cap it all, last night in our room two of the four of us were coughing and hacking, and one from the room next door spent most of the night being violently ill.  I can imagine worse places to be sick than a cold refugio, packed tight with people I barely know -- but there aren't many.  Tough days.

No matter what your endeavor, there are tough days.  No matter what your job, no matter how much you love it, there are days when you will wish for something, anything, else.  Every season, every relationship, every task, has its share of tough days.

Today the sky is sparkling blue -- at least for now.  There is snow on the ground, but it feels like a perfect day to walk.  But we won't be walking.  We also are headed for Leon for rest and recuperation.     Perhaps this is the time when we will also begin to process all that has happened so far,  take account,  and prepare for what comes next.

What do we do with tough days?  Give up?  Tough it out?  Look for something to fix?  Any might be possible.  Knowing that tough times are bound to come helps me to get through the ordinary ones.  But it is important to know when to stop, and when to fix, and when (and how) to be kind and gentle to ourselves.    Grace is often something we know best in times like these.  When we will accept the care,  compassion,  and time we need to be well.

So we, and most of our friends, will keep walking.  But not today.  Today we will rest and heal, and give thanks that this, too, is part of a Camino pilgrimage.  Rest.  Grace.  Sunshine on snowy rooftops.  And a warm spot to enjoy another cafe con leche.....

Beautiful, Beautiful, Burgos.

Images from a lovely rest day in Burgos, where Christopher Columbus spoke with royalty....right down from where we stayed!

Fellow pilgrims, with whom we've shared some miles.   Images ate mostly from Burgos cathedral, which is a spectacular jewel if a building..